While we were really enjoying life on the road and in the RV, the use of not always clean or comfortable showers and toilets made us long for an opportunity to have a private bathroom and a nice long shower. To this end we had decided to get ourselves a bed-and-breakfast for our stay in Fredericksburg. Fredericksburg being somewhat touristy, we had decided to stay at “A Barn at the Quarry”, about 20 minutes outside town.
The route there was pretty and very rural. We arrived close to dawn and saw large numbers of deer everywhere in the field. We probably saw more deer in a half hour than we have seen in our life!
The B&B turned out to be very nice, with a comfortable living room, good bed, spacious bathroom and a kitchen that had food for breakfast and a nice bottle of wine! Since we had as we call it “dinner for lunch” we decided for a lighter “lunch for dinner” meal, but with a glass of the wine :- )
There were also a few pets outside: a lama, two donkeys and a cow :- ) The Lama and the donkeys were very curious and liked to be fed with the feed the owners left in the house, but the cow was a little shy.
After spoiling showers and a good night sleep we were ready to explore Fredericksburg! It’s a small town of which the wide main street has retained much of its 19th century character, even though many of the buildings are now occupied by shops and restaurants and the street has a lot of car traffic and the sidewalks are filled with tourists. The town was founded by German immigrants and a many of the restaurants, bakeries and shops have German themed food and items for sale. It’s interesting that Texas was a popular destination for German immigrants that were escaping the political and other turmoil in Germany during that period (we also saw that in San Antonio’s King William neighborhood).
In addition to the picturesque main street and German themed shopping and eating, the town is know for the “National Museum of the Pacific War”. More about that later.
It was a cold and cloudy day, but luckily (except for a few drops) not raining, so we started out exploring the long main street and a few side streets on foot.
But first we had to get our morning (or in this case early afternoon) coffee, for which we found the “Twisted Sisters Bake Shop”. A nice place that served good coffee.
We walked the long main street up and down, with a short detour to see the 2 German-style churches. We stopped in 2 gourmet food shops that had unbelievable varieties of olive oil, vinegar, salsa, marmelade, jelly, wine, pickles, and much more. Everything could be tasted (this was before the Covid-19 lock-down). Quite an experience. We also stopped at a chocolaterie and tasted some chocolate and at a German bakery where we bought a good bread (otherwise hard to come by in this part of the country).
Having explored the not-so-large town, we decided to spend the rest of the afternoon at the National Museum of the Pacific War. We only had about 2 hours and that turned out to be too short for this very impressive museum. It had many detailed exhibits about the events leading to the war, the strategy of both sides, the battles and progression of the war, the role of various political and military leaders. Of course it was still somewhat US-biased, but very well done overall.
Since we didn’t have lunch we decided to have an early dinner and found “Otto’s German Bistro” right across from the museum (where we had parked the RV). The food was pretty authentic German; maybe not super-healthy, but very tasty!
From Otto’s we drove to the next (and final for the day) stop on our list: Luckenbach. It is an unincorporated community with an official population of 3 people. Located thirteen miles from Fredericksburg it is known as a venue for country music, which is why we decided to pay it a visit. If it wasn’t for that, it would now be a ghost town. It has a large dance hall, a small outdoor performance area and a fast-food stand. When we arrived the was a band with aging musicians playing outdoors. It wasn’t the greatest music, but very charming. A bit later the music started in the dance hall and couples showed up on the dance floor for the funny 2-step :- )
Around 9:30 pm we decided to call it a day and headed back to our B&B.
The next morning the weather was a lot nicer, so before starting the drive to our next stop, Marfa TX, we enjoyed breakfast on the veranda of our cottage. We were ready to go back to RV-living :- )